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jewelry definitions
 

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Adjustable Choker or Necklace  

Adjustable closure with a "hook" and "tail".

 
Airplane Back  

A finding connected to a decorative piece that is used in cuff link manufacture. It fits through the buttonholes and swivels horizontally to lock the cuff ends together. Also called link connection or wing back.

 
Amulet  

An object attributed with magical value worn on a person.

 
Anklet  

A 9" delicate chain worn around the ankle.

 
Baguette  

A rectangular style cut of stone. Usually used to set off larger center stones.

 
Bail  

A metal finding that is folded closed, from which a pendant, watch, stone, etc., may be hung from a chain, cord or thong.

 
Baker Setting  

A round setting similar to the Tiffany setting, but always having four prongs.

 
Balancer Back  

A thick plastic disc placed between the earlobe and the post for comfort.

 
Ball  

Round sphere.

 
Bangle  

A non-flexible or barely flexible bracelet made of solid or hollow metal or wire. May be one piece so that it may be slipped over the hand to hang loosely, or with a hinge so that it may be opened and fastened around the wrist.

 
Bar Pin  

See pin back.

 
Barrette  

Any ornamental bar with a pin and clasp mounted on the back worn as a hair ornament.

 
Baroque  

An uneven hammered appearance.

 
Barrel Back  

An earring back in the shape of a barrel.

 
Barrel Clasp  

The mechanism on a necklace, charm or flexible bracelet that twists the two free ends together.

 
Barrel Nut  

A barrel-shaped finding with PVC lining which grips a pin; generally used for earrings.

 
Base Metal  

Any non-precious metal.

 
Bead  

A hollow metal sphere that is swaged from spinning seamless tubing, and then separated and rolled into its final shape. Made like the no-hole ball, except that the two holes aren’t closed. Beads have one or two holes. Can be made from non-metallic materials. See no-hole ball and fancy balls and beads.

 
Bead Clasp  

A clasp mechanism that is hidden in a bead; made from a bead finding. Typically used for pearls or beaded goods, where it is camouflaged by round items.

 
Bead Tip  

A circular metal finding with a hook to which a clasp is attached directly or through a jump ring. It serves as a terminator for strung goods. It has a hole in one end through which the silk or nylon is threaded or knotted.

 
Beads  

Round beads strung together which are either strung with spacers or knotted.

 
Bezel  

A form of any shape which incorporates a continuous groove to fit something, generally a stone. The metal at the top of the groove is then burnished or swaged over the end of the mounted item to hold it, forming a setting. Various types include open-back bezel, serrated-edge bezel and rolled-edge bezel.

 
Bezel Wire  

See U-wire.

 
Bib  

Multi-strand necklace.

     
Birthstones  
January Garnet

Symbolizes constancy, faith, loyalty and strength.

February Amethyst/Pearl

Symbolizes deep love, happiness, humility, sincerity and wealth.

March Aquamarine/Bloodstone

Symbolizes health, hope and youth, brilliance, courage, generosity and health.

April Diamond

Symbolizes brilliance, constancy, excellence, innocence, invulnerable faith, joy, life, love and purity.

May Emerald

Symbolizes spring, rebirth, hope, peace and tranquility.

June Pearl/Moonstone

Symbolizes beauty, faithfulness, humility innocence, integrity, modesty, and purity.

July Ruby

Symbolizes beauty, charity, daintiness, dignity, happiness, love and passion.

August Sardonyx/Peridot

Symbolizes divine love, marital happiness vivacity and power.

September

Sapphire

Symbolizes calmness, constancy, contemplation, hope, innocence, purity, truth and virtue.

October

Opal/Tourmaline

Symbolic of confidence, happiness, hope, innocence, prayer and tender love.

November Topaz

Symbolizes divine goodness, eager love, fidelity, friendship, gentleness and integrity.

December Turquoise/Zircon

Symbolizes earth, happiness, good health, hope, prosperity and success.

 
Biwa/Freshwater  

Pearls found in fresh water mussels – generally not perfectly round as cultured pearls.  Irregular in shape, lower in luster, but available in a wider range of natural colors.

 
Boat Hook  

See lobster claw.

 
Bone Jewelry  

Jewelry made from natural animal bone. It may be dyed or tinted to any color.

 
Bow  

The ring or hoop on the pendant of a watchcase for fastening the swivel of a watch chain; any bow-shaped ornament, flat or three-dimensional.

 
Box Setting  

A square or rectangular grooved setting generally used for mounting a stone on a ring or pendant. The top edges of the groove are then swaged over to secure the stone.

 
Breloque  

A small item such as a charm that's designed to be suspended from a chain.

 
Brilliance  

The degree of brightness in a cut gemstone due to light reflected from the surface and from the back facets.

 
Brilliant  

A gem cut in a particular form with numerous facets so as to have special brilliance.

 
Brooch  

Any piece of jewelry that may be pinned, generally to clothing, but also to hats or hair.

 
Bunch Rings or

Stack Rings

 

Inexpensive rings with small center mounting for low-priced stones. Bunch rings are commonly sold in bunches tied together by string.

 
Burnished  

To make shiny or lustrous by rubbing.

 
Buttercup Setting  

A deep, six-prong setting shaped vaguely like the buttercup flower. The prongs are distinctly flared at the base, which has a scalloped outline when viewed from the top. Available in closed-back or open-back form, and on posts and V-bails. Also called a scallop setting.

 
Butterfly Clutch  

A clutch that grips a grooved post, having two wings that are squeezed to release it. Also called a grip fastener or a military grip.

 
Button Earring  

Round in shape, domed or flat, without any drops or fringe hanging from the earring.

 
Button Hoop  

Large hoop dangling from a button post - top; a.k.a. gypsy hoop.

 
Cabochon  

A style of cutting in which the top of the stone forms a curved convex surface. May be round, oval, or square in shape.

 
Cameo  

Generally a stone, usually an agate, or a shell composed of two differently colored layers, which has been carved so that one portion is raised from the differently colored matrix. Available in natural materials, in glass, plastics, porcelains, etc.

 
Cap  

Cover hinged to the center of a watchcase.

 
Carat (ct.)  

Unit of weight for gemstones. This system divides a carat into 100 points, resulting in such decimal weights as ¼ carat and 1-½ carats. ¼ carat = 25 points.

Cartouche  

Symmetrical ornamental shape generally used for decoration or engraving – from Egyptian tablets used for royal names.

 
Case Screw  

Small screw with full or ¾ head; designed to fasten a watch movement to its case.

 
Case Spring  

Spring which causes a case lid to snap open when the crown is pressed.

 
Casting  

A process for forming or duplicating jewelry objects by forcing molten metal into an investment mold from which the pattern has been burned out.

 
Catch  

The safety fastening mechanism on the back of a pin. See the joint, catch and pin-stem entry.

 
Chai   Two Hebrew words meaning "alive" or "living". It is an expression of best wishes and well being. A popular symbol of Jewish identity commonly made into pendants and rings.
 
Chain Tags  

A flat metal finding with a hole in each end. Its specific function is to carry the quality stamp or trademark of the manufacturer, and to provide an easily handled attachment point for spring rings. Also known as a quality tap or a plaque.

 
Channel Look  

Setting stones of similar size are placed in a channel to give an unbroken line. May not actually be channel set.

 
Channel Setting  

A setting in which the stones are fitted into a continuous strip of metal and held by the two walls, as opposed to being held separately by prongs.

 
Channel Wire  

See U-wire.

 
Chaton (see "Head")  

A ready-made prong setting used in rings or any other jewelry. Also refers to a small foil back crystal or glass stone.

Charm  

Miniature object generally designed to be attached to a chain bracelet but, in fact, may be worn in any number of way including as pendants or hung from pins, brooches, watch chains, etc. Can depict sports, occupations, figures, numbers, and letters – thousands of representations are available.

 
Chevron  

A figure, pattern or object that has the shape of a V or an inverted V.

 
Choker  

A short 15" or 16" necklace worn close around the throat.

 
Chunky  

A piece of jewelry with bold designs that has substance and weight.

 
Clamp  

A metal prong or claw on a gemstone setting.

 
Clasp  

Any type of attachment that connects the two ends of a piece of jewelry. Primarily used in wrist and neckware. Available in a wide variety of types.

 
Clasped Choker, Princess Collar or
Dog Collar
 

A necklace approximately 13"-15" long that fits around the middle vs. the base of the neck.

 
Clip  

In a clip-back earring, the clip holds the decorative part of the earring to a non-pierced ear by mechanical pressure. Earrings with a spring clip to securely and comfortably hold the earring on the ear.

 
Clip-On Bail  

See locket bail.

 
Cloisonné  

Enameling in which thin, flat wire (silver, gold, bronze, or copper which has been gilded) is bent to form cells on a metal base then filled with enamel. Each color is in a separate compartment.

 
Cluster Rings
or Pendants
 

Three or more beads on a ring or pendant.

 
Cluster Setting  

Any stone setting in which multiple stones are set closely together. They are generally circular.

 
Clusters  

Three or more beads on one earring back.

 
Clutch  

The attachment used to secure a pierced earring on the ear. It is slipped onto a post after insertion through the earlobe.

 
Clutch and Bar  

A tie-pin clutch with a small chain and bar added. The bar is designed to pass through a buttonhole to secure the necktie.

 
Clutch Back  

A locking device which grabs onto a pin or post in a piece of jewelry to prevent loss. Depending on the clutch type, this pin may be grooved or plain. Also see ear nut.

 
Cocktail Ring  

Any large scaled ring designed to hold gemstones.

 
Collar  

An all-around necklace about 15"-16" long fitting close to the base of the neck.

 
Collar Button  

Metal button designed to close the starched collars that used to be separate from shirts up to about 60 years ago.

 
Collar Clip  

Double-ended spring clip worn under the knot of the tie forcing the knot out and holding the ends of the collar in place; in and out of fashion.

 
Collar Pin  

Double-ended pin with one removable end (generally a ball) which is inserted through holes in both collars; serves same function as collar clip and also goes in and out of fashion.

 
Collet  

Decorative band or collar with top and bottom edges parallel; flange in which any kind of stone is set.

 
Color-enhanced  

When a semi-precious stone is dyed or irradiated to intensify the color.

 
Colored Stone  

Any precious or genuine stone other than a diamond used as a component in jewelry; sometimes used to describe synthetics, glass, plastic or similar imitation stones.

 
Cornucopia  

Popular "horn of plenty" symbol of abundance and luck; spiral horn from which cascade edibles or flowers.

 
Corrugated Bead  

A hollow metal sphere made from corrugated tubing. Like all beads it has two holes. Also called a cut bead. In addition, there is also a twist-corrugated bead in which the corrugations spiral around the surface of the bead instead of being straight up and down.

 
Coupe  

A flat plate rolled slightly at the rim.

 
Craquelees  

Rock crystal stones artificially cracked or crazed by heating.

 
Crest  

The identifying emblem on a piece of jewelry.

 
Cross  

Christian symbol of the resurrection; religious find that takes dozens of forms, plain or decorative, from the common Latin Cross to the Greek and Byzantine Crosses; called a crucifix if it includes the crucified figure of Christ.

 
Cubic Zirconia  

A man-made diamond substitute with the color, clearness, hardness, refractive index and dispersion level very close to that of a diamond. Cubic Zirconia is composed of Zirconium oxide that is stabilized by yttrium. It is an extremely hard stone with a high refractive index that creates brilliance. The visual effect is identical to a diamond.

 
Cuff Bracelet  

Wide solid bracelet with an opening either slipped on or hinged.

 
Cuff Link  

Jewelry item designed to close buttonless shirt cuffs called French cuffs; consists of either two identical or similar decorative pieces connected by a bar or chain.

 
Cultured Pearls  

Created by introducing a perfectly round mother of pearl bead into an oyster, which is grown in salt water. The oyster deposits layers of nacre to form a cultured pearl

 
Cut Bead  

See corrugated bead.

 
Dapping  

An operation that adds a third dimension to a normally flat ornament; e.g., doming a flat ornament.

 
Daytime Diamond  

The name given to pieces of jewelry with rhinestones or cubic Zirconia that can be worn in the daytime.

 
Devotional Jewelry  

Religious items – crosses, Christ heads, etc.

 
Diadem  

Regal emblem.

 
 
Die Setting

(see "Metal Stamping")

 

Forming a flat piece of metal with hardened steel forms called dies. A pair of dies with male and female patterns are pressed into the metal with great pressure to cut, shape or add surface detail.

 
Dog Collar  

Wide, flexible band of any material to be worn tight around the neck similar to a choker.

 
Dog Tag  

Identification tag worn around the neck by members of the armed forces.

 
Dome  

Any convex decoration; generally made by pressing a metal circle into a hollow. Can be made manually with a dapping block and a dapping punch, or by utilizing a pinch-off tool in a power press.

 
Doorknocker  

A hoop attached to a designed stud.

 
Doublet  

Any stone made of two component parts. Doublets are frequently combinations of genuine stones along with glass, plastics or synthetic stones.

 
Drop  

A small ornament suspended from a piece of jewelry.

 
Drop-off Necklace  

Necklace with several motifs coming off the necklace.

 
Drops  

An earring in which the bottom half swings.

 
Ear Back  

See ear nut.

 
Ear Clip  

See clip.

 
Ear Nut  

A threaded nut for use with ear screws. There also is a friction version which is not threaded, but instead has two curved wings that grasp a grooved post. The friction versions are alternately called clutch, push back, clutch back, ear back, earring backs or earring clutch.

 
Ear Post  

See post.

 
Ear Screw  

A threaded post used with a nut for pierced earrings.

 
Ear Wire  

A bow of wire, looped to fasten an earring to a pierced ear. It's generally made of gold, sterling silver or hypo-allergenic surgical steel. Also see kidney wire.

 
Earring  

Any ornament attached to the lobe of the ear by screw, clip or wire.

 
Earring Back  

See ear nut.

 
Earring Clutch  

See ear nut.

 
 
Earring Jacket  

A separate decorative component that can be added to earrings by the wearer to create different looks.

 
Ecclesiastical Rings  

Ring with religious motifs worn by higher-ranking Church officials and dignitaries.

 
Electroplating  

The process by which electricity is used to cover a piece of jewelry with a metal. The electricity makes the two magnetically attract and permanently fuse.

 
Elephant Hair Jewelry  

Generally jewelry made from elephants’ tail hair or bristle – usually a twisted bracelet; commonly copied in metal.

 
Elk Tooth  

Emblem of the Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks; either natural elk’s teeth or molded plastic. At one time common as a watch fob ornament.

 
Embellished  

To make beautiful with ornamentation.

 
Embossing  

A multi-level raised design in metal manufactured in one piece.

 
Emerald Cut  

A rectangular cut with parallel facets and clipped corners.

 
Enamel  

A technique where powdered colored glass is fired to a gloss after it is applied to gold, silver or copper. A layer of clear powdered glass is placed on top and fired again.

 
Engravable  

Any item with a relatively flat, thick area suitable for engraving.

 
Engraving  

Etching a design into the body of the metal.

 
Epoxy  

An inexpensive technique to reproduce the look of enamel using resin-like chemicals instead of glass.

 
Etching  

See metal etching.

 
Eternity Ring  

Band set with full or half circlet of stones given by a husband or wife as a pledge of undying love. Similar styles include guard, caliber and insert rings.

 
Eye  

A loop which connects any piece of jewelry to another segment, bail or a chain.

 
Eye Pin  

A wire of varying length that has been manipulated at one end to form a loop to which items can be attached.

 
Eyeglass Ware  

See U-wire.

 
Faceted  

Small flat surfaces cut into a stone, glass or shell. Purpose is to refract light or enhance the design.

 
Faceted Button  

Small, flat surface cut into a stone, glass or shell. Purpose is to refract light or enhance the design.

     
Fancy Balls and Beads  

A name for balls or beads made in shapes other than spherical; e.g., bell shapes, oval, cups, etc.

 
Fancy Gallery  

See gallery.

 
Fashion  

The current trend in clothing, hair styles, accessories, etc.

 
Fashion or

Simulated Pearl

 

Produced by covering a plastic or glass bead with a pearl-like substance to simulate a cultured pearl. Widely available in many colors. Roman pearls have a distinctive, trademarked color called "Roman Cream".

 
Faux (fōe)  

Imitation. Usually refers to imitation pearls.

 
Ferrule  

A metal band that is fitted to the ends of material to finish the ends or keep them from fraying.

 
Festoon  

Ornament shaped like a wreath or garland, generally composed of a bound bunch of flowers or leaves suspended at the ends.

 
Figure-Eight Safety  

A type of safety catch in which a hinged wire in the shape of a figure eight or hourglass snaps over a catch. Usually used in link bracelets.

 
Filigreé  

Ornamental work formed of bent wire soldered into delicate and complex designs, somewhat reminiscent of lace patterns. Today, filigree may also be stamped or cast.

 
Findings  

Mass manufactured component parts such as joints, links or clasps that are necessary to assemble many jewelry items.

 
Fishhook  

A fishhook-shaped finding used to make earrings. The hook end passes through the pierced ear, while an ornament hangs from the other end.

 
14K Post  

Pierced earrings where the post is made from 14K gold.

 
Flambeau  

Ornament shaped like flame or torch end.

 
Flat Stock (also Sheet Stock)  

Metal passed through successively narrow rolling mills; generally used for stamping.

 
Fleur-de-lis or
Fleur-de-lys
 

Iris-shaped ornament famous as the insignia of French royalty.

 
Flexible Bracelet  

Bracelet made of hinged links.

 
Flexible Extension
Bracelet
 

Bracelet composed of hinged links actuated by springs, permitting the links to pull apart slightly. Used mostly for watchbands.

 
Florentine  

Brushed or textured.

 
Fob  

A chain or ribbon attached to a pocket watch. Used to pull the watch out of a pocket, or to attach the watch to clothing with a pin.

 
Foliation  

Ornamental designs – engraved, stamped or cast – in the form of leaves, vines, etc.

Formed Bead  

A bead formed from metal tubing.

 
Frame  

A banded metal ornament designed to accept a setting and stone. It is often confused with the setting itself.

 
French Back  

An earring in which one leg of a U-shaped wire is attached to the back of the ornament. A screw piece may be fitted through a threaded hole in the other leg; this may be tightened against the earlobe. Also see screw back.

 
French Clip  

An earring finding consisting of both a spring-clip and a screw-back to adjust the tension of the clip.

 
Frenchwire/Fishhook  

A type of finding for pierced ears that is similar in appearance to a fishhook.

 
Friction Post  

A push-on post; see ear post.

 
Fringe  

An ornamental border consisting of short straight or twisted beads on strips hanging from a cut or raveled edge or from a separate band.

 
Fringe Necklace  

Usually beads of varying lengths coming off a beaded necklace.

 
Fusion Post  

A post used in the fusion or fusion-welding process. Looks like a normal post, but has an "initiating nib" at the end. During assembly, when the positively charged post contacts the negatively charged base, an arc occurs at the initiating nib, fusing the post to the jewelry item.

 
Gallery  

A name for metal strips used to make settings. Gallery is generally manufactured as a continuous strip with a repeated design. Highly decorated examples are referred to as fancy gallery.

 
Gemstones  

A mineral or petrified material that when cut and polished can be used in jewelry.

 
Genuine Ivory  

Jewelry obtained from the hard, creamy-white tusk of an elephant, hippo or walrus. Now illegal to produce. Most genuine ivory items on the marketplace are antiques.

 
Geometric Shapes  

Utilizing rectilinear or simple curvilinear motifs or outlines in design.

 
Glass or
Crystal Stones
 

Beautifully colored glass matching the real stone in color and cut, but lacking the depth and fire of the real gem.

 
Gold Electroplate  

An electrolytically applied coating of gold over a base metal. The plated coating must not be less than 10k fineness, to a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to 7 millionths of an inch of fine gold. Any thinner must be marked gold flashed or gold washed. If the coating is equivalent to 100 millionths of an inch of fine gold, it may be marked Heavy God Electroplate or HE.

 
Gold Filled or
Gold Overlay
 

A process of pressure bonding a thin layer of gold to a base metal core, usually brass. Gold filled – unlike gold plating – has an actual layer of gold, giving it more value and making it tarnish resistant.

 
Gold Toned  

A term used to refer to gold-colored jewelry. May not actually have any karat gold plating.

 
Goose Neck Collar  

A type of metal collar that is flexible in design.

 
Graduated  

Beads that decrease in size originating from a center bead.

 
Grip Fastener  

See butterfly.

 
Guard Chain  

Small chain with one end attached to a necklace or bracelet, the other end to a loop or link on the opposite end of the piece. Used as a fail-safe in case the clasp opens.

 
Hat Pin  

Long metal pin with an ornamental head used to fasten a woman’s hat by passing the pin through her hat and hair.

 
Howlite  

An inexpensive, opaque genuine stone that is dyed in different fashion colors.

 
Head  

The upper portion of a ring; it is usually a tapered box with prongs or grooves for fastening a gemstone. It may be integral, or can be designed to be mounted to the separate ring shank. See setting and chaton.

 
Head Pin  

A wire of varying length that has been manipulated at one end to form a flat round surface.

 
Heishi Beads  

Small marine shells strung through a natural or drilled center hole. Available in natural or dyed colors, as well as in imitation forms.

 
Heraldic  

A type of jewelry from European history – usually from the 1500s to 1800s – and associated with crosses, crests, fleur-de-lis and other historical motifs.

 
Hidden Clasp  

See ivory clasp.

 
High Relief  

Ornamental work in which designs are raised or stamped to stand out from the surface.