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A
B C D
E F G
H I J
K L M
N O P
Q R S
T U V
W X Y Z |
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Adjustable Choker or Necklace |
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Adjustable closure with a "hook" and
"tail". |
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Airplane
Back |
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A finding connected to a decorative piece that is used in
cuff link manufacture. It fits through the buttonholes and swivels
horizontally to lock the cuff ends together. Also called link
connection or wing back. |
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Amulet |
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An object attributed with magical value worn on a
person. |
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Anklet |
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A 9" delicate chain worn around the
ankle. |
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Baguette |
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A rectangular style cut of stone. Usually used to set off
larger center stones. |
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Bail |
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A metal finding that is folded closed, from which a
pendant, watch, stone, etc., may be hung from a chain, cord or
thong. |
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Baker
Setting |
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A round setting similar to the Tiffany setting, but
always having four prongs. |
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Balancer
Back |
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A thick plastic disc placed between the earlobe and the
post for comfort. |
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Ball |
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Round sphere. |
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Bangle |
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A non-flexible or barely flexible bracelet made of solid
or hollow metal or wire. May be one piece so that it may be slipped over
the hand to hang loosely, or with a hinge so that it may be opened and
fastened around the wrist. |
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Bar Pin |
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See pin back. |
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Barrette |
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Any ornamental bar with a pin and clasp mounted on the
back worn as a hair ornament. |
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Baroque |
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An uneven hammered appearance. |
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Barrel
Back |
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An earring back in the shape of a
barrel. |
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Barrel
Clasp |
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The mechanism on a necklace, charm or flexible bracelet
that twists the two free ends together. |
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Barrel
Nut |
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A barrel-shaped finding with PVC lining which grips a
pin; generally used for earrings. |
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Base
Metal |
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Any non-precious metal. |
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Bead |
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A hollow metal sphere that is swaged from spinning
seamless tubing, and then separated and rolled into its final shape. Made
like the no-hole ball, except that the two holes aren’t closed. Beads have
one or two holes. Can be made from non-metallic materials. See no-hole
ball and fancy balls and beads. |
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Bead
Clasp |
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A clasp mechanism that is hidden in a bead; made from a
bead finding. Typically used for pearls or beaded goods, where it is
camouflaged by round items. |
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Bead
Tip |
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A circular metal finding with a hook to which a clasp is
attached directly or through a jump ring. It serves as a terminator for
strung goods. It has a hole in one end through which the silk or nylon is
threaded or knotted. |
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Beads |
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Round beads strung together which are either strung with
spacers or knotted. |
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Bezel |
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A form of any shape which incorporates a continuous
groove to fit something, generally a stone. The metal at the top of the
groove is then burnished or swaged over the end of the mounted item to
hold it, forming a setting. Various types include open-back bezel,
serrated-edge bezel and rolled-edge bezel. |
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Bezel
Wire |
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See U-wire. |
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Bib |
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Multi-strand necklace. |
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Birthstones |
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January |
Garnet |
Symbolizes constancy, faith, loyalty and
strength. |
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February |
Amethyst/Pearl |
Symbolizes deep love, happiness, humility,
sincerity and wealth. |
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March |
Aquamarine/Bloodstone |
Symbolizes health, hope and youth, brilliance,
courage, generosity and health. |
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April |
Diamond |
Symbolizes brilliance, constancy, excellence,
innocence, invulnerable faith, joy, life, love and
purity. |
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May |
Emerald |
Symbolizes spring, rebirth, hope, peace and
tranquility. |
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June |
Pearl/Moonstone |
Symbolizes beauty, faithfulness, humility
innocence, integrity, modesty, and purity. |
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July |
Ruby |
Symbolizes beauty, charity, daintiness, dignity,
happiness, love and passion. |
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August |
Sardonyx/Peridot |
Symbolizes divine love, marital happiness vivacity
and power. |
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September |
Sapphire |
Symbolizes calmness, constancy, contemplation,
hope, innocence, purity, truth and virtue. |
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October |
Opal/Tourmaline |
Symbolic of confidence, happiness, hope, innocence,
prayer and tender love. |
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November |
Topaz
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Symbolizes divine goodness, eager love, fidelity,
friendship, gentleness and integrity. |
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December |
Turquoise/Zircon |
Symbolizes earth, happiness, good health, hope,
prosperity and success. | |
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Biwa/Freshwater |
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Pearls found in fresh water mussels – generally not
perfectly round as cultured pearls. Irregular in shape, lower in
luster, but available in a wider range of natural colors. |
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Boat
Hook |
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See lobster claw. |
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Bone
Jewelry |
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Jewelry made from natural animal bone. It may be dyed or
tinted to any color. |
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Bow |
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The ring or hoop on the pendant of a watchcase for
fastening the swivel of a watch chain; any bow-shaped ornament, flat or
three-dimensional. |
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Box
Setting |
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A square or rectangular grooved setting generally used
for mounting a stone on a ring or pendant. The top edges of the groove are
then swaged over to secure the stone. |
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Breloque |
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A small item such as a charm that's designed to be
suspended from a chain. |
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Brilliance |
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The degree of brightness in a cut gemstone due to light
reflected from the surface and from the back facets. |
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Brilliant |
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A gem cut in a particular form with numerous facets so as
to have special brilliance. |
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Brooch |
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Any piece of jewelry that may be pinned, generally to
clothing, but also to hats or hair. |
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Bunch Rings or
Stack Rings |
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Inexpensive rings with small center mounting for
low-priced stones. Bunch rings are commonly sold in bunches tied together
by string. |
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Burnished |
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To make shiny or lustrous by rubbing. |
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Buttercup
Setting |
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A deep, six-prong setting shaped vaguely like the
buttercup flower. The prongs are distinctly flared at the base, which has
a scalloped outline when viewed from the top. Available in closed-back or
open-back form, and on posts and V-bails. Also called a scallop
setting. |
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Butterfly
Clutch |
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A clutch that grips a grooved post, having two wings that
are squeezed to release it. Also called a grip fastener or a military
grip. |
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Button
Earring |
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Round in shape, domed or flat, without any drops or
fringe hanging from the earring. |
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Button
Hoop |
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Large hoop dangling from a button post - top; a.k.a.
gypsy hoop. |
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Cabochon |
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A style of cutting in which the top of the stone forms a
curved convex surface. May be round, oval, or square in shape.
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Cameo |
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Generally a stone, usually an agate, or a shell composed
of two differently colored layers, which has been carved so that one
portion is raised from the differently colored matrix. Available in
natural materials, in glass, plastics, porcelains, etc. |
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Cap |
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Cover hinged to the center of a
watchcase. |
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Carat
(ct.) |
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Unit of weight for gemstones. This system divides a carat
into 100 points, resulting in such decimal weights as ¼ carat and 1-½
carats. ¼ carat = 25 points. |
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Cartouche |
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Symmetrical ornamental shape generally used for
decoration or engraving – from Egyptian tablets used for royal
names. |
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Case
Screw |
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Small screw with full or ¾ head; designed to fasten a
watch movement to its case. |
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Case
Spring |
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Spring which causes a case lid to snap open when the
crown is pressed. |
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Casting |
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A process for forming or duplicating jewelry objects by
forcing molten metal into an investment mold from which the pattern has
been burned out. |
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Catch |
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The safety fastening mechanism on the back of a pin. See
the joint, catch and pin-stem entry. |
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Chai |
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Two Hebrew words meaning
"alive" or "living". It is an expression of best wishes and well being. A
popular symbol of Jewish identity commonly made into pendants and
rings. |
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Chain
Tags |
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A flat metal finding with a hole in each end. Its
specific function is to carry the quality stamp or trademark of the
manufacturer, and to provide an easily handled attachment point for spring
rings. Also known as a quality tap or a plaque. |
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Channel
Look |
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Setting stones of similar size are placed in a channel to
give an unbroken line. May not actually be channel set. |
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Channel
Setting |
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A setting in which the stones are fitted into a
continuous strip of metal and held by the two walls, as opposed to being
held separately by prongs. |
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Channel
Wire |
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See U-wire. |
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Chaton (see
"Head") |
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A ready-made prong setting used in rings or any other
jewelry. Also refers to a small foil back crystal or glass
stone. |
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Charm |
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Miniature object generally designed to be attached to a
chain bracelet but, in fact, may be worn in any number of way including as
pendants or hung from pins, brooches, watch chains, etc. Can depict
sports, occupations, figures, numbers, and letters – thousands of
representations are available. |
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Chevron |
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A figure, pattern or object that has the shape of a V or
an inverted V. |
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Choker |
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A short 15" or 16" necklace worn close around the
throat. |
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Chunky |
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A piece of jewelry with bold designs that has substance
and weight. |
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Clamp |
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A metal prong or claw on a gemstone
setting. |
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Clasp |
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Any type of attachment that connects the two ends of a
piece of jewelry. Primarily used in wrist and neckware. Available in a
wide variety of types. |
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Clasped Choker,
Princess Collar or
Dog Collar |
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A necklace approximately 13"-15" long that fits around
the middle vs. the base of the neck. |
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Clip |
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In a clip-back earring, the clip holds the decorative
part of the earring to a non-pierced ear by mechanical pressure. Earrings
with a spring clip to securely and comfortably hold the earring on the
ear. |
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Clip-On
Bail |
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See locket bail. |
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Cloisonné |
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Enameling in which thin, flat wire (silver, gold, bronze,
or copper which has been gilded) is bent to form cells on a metal base
then filled with enamel. Each color is in a separate
compartment. |
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Cluster Rings
or
Pendants |
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Three or more beads on a ring or
pendant. |
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Cluster
Setting |
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Any stone setting in which multiple stones are set
closely together. They are generally circular. |
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Clusters |
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Three or more beads on one earring back. |
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Clutch |
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The attachment used to secure a pierced earring on the
ear. It is slipped onto a post after insertion through the
earlobe. |
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Clutch and
Bar |
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A tie-pin clutch with a small chain and bar added. The
bar is designed to pass through a buttonhole to secure the
necktie. |
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Clutch
Back |
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A locking device which grabs onto a pin or post in a
piece of jewelry to prevent loss. Depending on the clutch type, this pin
may be grooved or plain. Also see ear nut. |
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Cocktail
Ring |
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Any large scaled ring designed to hold
gemstones. |
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Collar |
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An all-around necklace about 15"-16" long fitting close
to the base of the neck. |
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Collar
Button |
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Metal button designed to close the starched collars that
used to be separate from shirts up to about 60 years ago. |
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Collar
Clip |
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Double-ended spring clip worn under the knot of the tie
forcing the knot out and holding the ends of the collar in place; in and
out of fashion. |
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Collar
Pin |
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Double-ended pin with one removable end (generally a
ball) which is inserted through holes in both collars; serves same
function as collar clip and also goes in and out of
fashion. |
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Collet |
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Decorative band or collar with top and bottom edges
parallel; flange in which any kind of stone is set. |
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Color-enhanced |
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When a semi-precious stone is dyed or irradiated to
intensify the color. |
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Colored
Stone |
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Any precious or genuine stone other than a diamond used
as a component in jewelry; sometimes used to describe synthetics, glass,
plastic or similar imitation stones. |
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Cornucopia |
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Popular "horn of plenty" symbol of abundance and luck;
spiral horn from which cascade edibles or flowers. |
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Corrugated
Bead |
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A hollow metal sphere made from corrugated tubing. Like
all beads it has two holes. Also called a cut bead. In addition,
there is also a twist-corrugated bead in which the corrugations
spiral around the surface of the bead instead of being straight up and
down. |
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Coupe |
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A flat plate rolled slightly at the rim. |
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Craquelees |
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Rock crystal stones artificially cracked or crazed by
heating. |
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Crest |
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The identifying emblem on a piece of
jewelry. |
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Cross |
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Christian symbol of the resurrection; religious find that
takes dozens of forms, plain or decorative, from the common Latin Cross to
the Greek and Byzantine Crosses; called a crucifix if it includes the
crucified figure of Christ. |
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Cubic
Zirconia |
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A man-made diamond substitute with the color, clearness,
hardness, refractive index and dispersion level very close to that of a
diamond. Cubic Zirconia is composed of Zirconium oxide that is stabilized
by yttrium. It is an extremely hard stone with a high refractive index
that creates brilliance. The visual effect is identical to a
diamond. |
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Cuff
Bracelet |
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Wide solid bracelet with an opening either slipped on or
hinged. |
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Cuff
Link |
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Jewelry item designed to close buttonless shirt cuffs
called French cuffs; consists of either two identical or similar
decorative pieces connected by a bar or chain. |
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Cultured
Pearls |
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Created by introducing a perfectly round mother of pearl
bead into an oyster, which is grown in salt water. The oyster deposits
layers of nacre to form a cultured pearl |
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Cut
Bead |
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See corrugated bead. |
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Dapping |
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An operation that adds a third dimension to a normally
flat ornament; e.g., doming a flat ornament. |
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Daytime
Diamond |
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The name given to pieces of jewelry with rhinestones or
cubic Zirconia that can be worn in the daytime. |
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Devotional
Jewelry |
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Religious items – crosses, Christ heads,
etc. |
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Diadem |
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Regal emblem. |
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Die Setting
(see "Metal Stamping") |
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Forming a flat piece of metal with hardened steel forms
called dies. A pair of dies with male and female patterns are pressed into
the metal with great pressure to cut, shape or add surface
detail. |
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Dog
Collar |
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Wide, flexible band of any material to be worn tight
around the neck similar to a choker. |
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Dog Tag |
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Identification tag worn around the neck by members of the
armed forces. |
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Dome |
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Any convex decoration; generally made by pressing a metal
circle into a hollow. Can be made manually with a dapping block and a
dapping punch, or by utilizing a pinch-off tool in a power
press. |
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Doorknocker |
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A hoop attached to a designed stud. |
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Doublet |
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Any stone made of two component parts. Doublets are
frequently combinations of genuine stones along with glass, plastics or
synthetic stones. |
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Drop |
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A small ornament suspended from a piece of
jewelry. |
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Drop-off
Necklace |
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Necklace with several motifs coming off the
necklace. |
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Drops |
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An earring in which the bottom half
swings. |
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Ear
Back |
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See ear nut. |
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Ear
Clip |
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See clip. |
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Ear Nut |
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A threaded nut for use with ear screws. There also is a
friction version which is not threaded, but instead has two curved wings
that grasp a grooved post. The friction versions are alternately called
clutch, push back, clutch back, ear back, earring backs or earring
clutch. |
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Ear
Post |
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See post. |
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Ear
Screw |
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A threaded post used with a nut for pierced
earrings. |
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Ear
Wire |
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A bow of wire, looped to fasten an earring to a pierced
ear. It's generally made of gold, sterling silver or hypo-allergenic
surgical steel. Also see kidney wire. |
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Earring |
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Any ornament attached to the lobe of the ear by screw,
clip or wire. |
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Earring
Back |
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See ear nut. |
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Earring
Clutch |
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See ear nut. |
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Earring
Jacket |
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A separate decorative component that can be added to
earrings by the wearer to create different looks. |
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Ecclesiastical
Rings |
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Ring with religious motifs worn by higher-ranking Church
officials and dignitaries. |
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Electroplating |
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The process by which electricity is used to cover a piece
of jewelry with a metal. The electricity makes the two magnetically
attract and permanently fuse. |
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Elephant Hair Jewelry |
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Generally jewelry made from elephants’ tail hair or
bristle – usually a twisted bracelet; commonly copied in
metal. |
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Elk
Tooth |
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Emblem of the Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks;
either natural elk’s teeth or molded plastic. At one time common as a
watch fob ornament. |
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Embellished |
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To make beautiful with ornamentation. |
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Embossing |
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A multi-level raised design in metal manufactured in one
piece. |
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Emerald
Cut |
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A rectangular cut with parallel facets and clipped
corners. |
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Enamel |
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A technique where powdered colored glass is fired to a
gloss after it is applied to gold, silver or copper. A layer of clear
powdered glass is placed on top and fired again. |
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Engravable |
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Any item with a relatively flat, thick area suitable for
engraving. |
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Engraving |
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Etching a design into the body of the
metal. |
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Epoxy |
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An inexpensive technique to reproduce the look of enamel
using resin-like chemicals instead of glass. |
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Etching |
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See metal etching. |
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Eternity
Ring |
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Band set with full or half circlet of stones given by a
husband or wife as a pledge of undying love. Similar styles include
guard, caliber and insert rings. |
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Eye |
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A loop which connects any piece of jewelry to another
segment, bail or a chain. |
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Eye Pin |
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A wire of varying length that has been manipulated at one
end to form a loop to which items can be attached. |
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Eyeglass
Ware |
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See U-wire. |
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Faceted |
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Small flat surfaces cut into a stone, glass or shell.
Purpose is to refract light or enhance the design. |
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Faceted
Button |
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Small, flat surface cut into a stone, glass or shell.
Purpose is to refract light or enhance the design. |
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Fancy Balls and
Beads |
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A name for balls or beads made in shapes other than
spherical; e.g., bell shapes, oval, cups, etc. |
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Fancy
Gallery |
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See gallery. |
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Fashion
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The current trend in clothing, hair styles, accessories,
etc. |
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Fashion or
Simulated Pearl |
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Produced by covering a plastic or glass bead with a
pearl-like substance to simulate a cultured pearl. Widely available in
many colors. Roman pearls have a distinctive, trademarked color called
"Roman Cream". |
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Faux (fōe) |
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Imitation. Usually refers to imitation
pearls. |
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Ferrule |
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A metal band that is fitted to the ends of material to
finish the ends or keep them from fraying. |
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Festoon |
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Ornament shaped like a wreath or garland, generally
composed of a bound bunch of flowers or leaves suspended at the
ends. |
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Figure-Eight
Safety |
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A type of safety catch in which a hinged wire in the
shape of a figure eight or hourglass snaps over a catch. Usually used in
link bracelets. |
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Filigreé |
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Ornamental work formed of bent wire soldered into
delicate and complex designs, somewhat reminiscent of lace patterns.
Today, filigree may also be stamped or cast. |
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Findings |
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Mass manufactured component parts such as joints, links
or clasps that are necessary to assemble many jewelry
items. |
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Fishhook |
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A fishhook-shaped finding used to make earrings. The hook
end passes through the pierced ear, while an ornament hangs from the other
end. |
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14K
Post |
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Pierced earrings where the post is made from 14K
gold. |
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Flambeau |
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Ornament shaped like flame or torch end. |
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Flat Stock (also
Sheet Stock) |
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Metal passed through successively narrow rolling mills;
generally used for stamping. |
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Fleur-de-lis or
Fleur-de-lys |
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Iris-shaped ornament famous as the insignia of French
royalty. |
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Flexible
Bracelet |
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Bracelet made of hinged links. |
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Flexible Extension
Bracelet |
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Bracelet composed of hinged links actuated by springs,
permitting the links to pull apart slightly. Used mostly for
watchbands. |
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Florentine |
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Brushed or textured. |
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Fob |
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A chain or ribbon attached to a pocket watch. Used to
pull the watch out of a pocket, or to attach the watch to clothing with a
pin. |
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Foliation |
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Ornamental designs – engraved, stamped or cast – in the
form of leaves, vines, etc. |
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Formed
Bead |
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A bead formed from metal tubing. |
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Frame |
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A banded metal ornament designed to accept a setting and
stone. It is often confused with the setting itself. |
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French
Back |
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An earring in which one leg of a U-shaped wire is
attached to the back of the ornament. A screw piece may be fitted through
a threaded hole in the other leg; this may be tightened against the
earlobe. Also see screw back. |
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French
Clip |
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An earring finding consisting of both a spring-clip and a
screw-back to adjust the tension of the clip. |
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Frenchwire/Fishhook |
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A type of finding for pierced ears that is similar in
appearance to a fishhook. |
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Friction
Post |
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A push-on post; see ear post. |
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Fringe |
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An ornamental border consisting of short straight or
twisted beads on strips hanging from a cut or raveled edge or from a
separate band. |
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Fringe
Necklace |
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Usually beads of varying lengths coming off a beaded
necklace. |
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Fusion
Post |
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A post used in the fusion or fusion-welding process.
Looks like a normal post, but has an "initiating nib" at the end. During
assembly, when the positively charged post contacts the negatively charged
base, an arc occurs at the initiating nib, fusing the post to the jewelry
item. |
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Gallery |
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A name for metal strips used to make settings. Gallery is
generally manufactured as a continuous strip with a repeated design.
Highly decorated examples are referred to as fancy
gallery. |
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Gemstones |
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A mineral or petrified material that when cut and
polished can be used in jewelry. |
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Genuine
Ivory |
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Jewelry obtained from the hard, creamy-white tusk of an
elephant, hippo or walrus. Now illegal to produce. Most genuine ivory
items on the marketplace are antiques. |
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Geometric
Shapes |
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Utilizing rectilinear or simple curvilinear motifs or
outlines in design. |
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Glass or
Crystal
Stones |
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Beautifully colored glass matching the real stone in
color and cut, but lacking the depth and fire of the real
gem. |
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Gold
Electroplate |
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An electrolytically applied coating of gold over a base
metal. The plated coating must not be less than 10k fineness, to a minimum
thickness throughout equivalent to 7 millionths of an inch of fine gold.
Any thinner must be marked gold flashed or gold washed. If
the coating is equivalent to 100 millionths of an inch of fine gold, it
may be marked Heavy God Electroplate or HE. |
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Gold Filled or
Gold
Overlay |
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A process of pressure bonding a thin layer of gold to a
base metal core, usually brass. Gold filled – unlike gold plating – has an
actual layer of gold, giving it more value and making it tarnish
resistant. |
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Gold
Toned |
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A term used to refer to gold-colored jewelry. May not
actually have any karat gold plating. |
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Goose Neck
Collar |
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A type of metal collar that is flexible in
design. |
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Graduated |
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Beads that decrease in size originating from a center
bead. |
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Grip
Fastener |
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See butterfly. |
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Guard
Chain |
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Small chain with one end attached to a necklace or
bracelet, the other end to a loop or link on the opposite end of the
piece. Used as a fail-safe in case the clasp opens. |
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Hat
Pin |
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Long metal pin with an ornamental head used to fasten a
woman’s hat by passing the pin through her hat and hair. |
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Howlite |
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An inexpensive, opaque genuine stone that is dyed in
different fashion colors. |
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Head |
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The upper portion of a ring; it is usually a tapered box
with prongs or grooves for fastening a gemstone. It may be integral, or
can be designed to be mounted to the separate ring shank. See
setting and chaton. |
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Head
Pin |
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A wire of varying length that has been manipulated at one
end to form a flat round surface. |
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Heishi
Beads |
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Small marine shells strung through a natural or drilled
center hole. Available in natural or dyed colors, as well as in imitation
forms. |
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Heraldic |
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A type of jewelry from European history – usually from
the 1500s to 1800s – and associated with crosses, crests, fleur-de-lis and
other historical motifs. |
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Hidden
Clasp |
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See ivory clasp. |
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High
Relief |
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Ornamental work in which designs are raised or stamped to
stand out from the surface. |